Supporting the Hydration/Lubrication Function and the Oil/Water Barrier
Producing and secreting the outermost protective barrier (known as the Acid Mantle) is a large part of the “Hydration and Lubrication” function of the skin. This barrier is a slightly acidic (pH 4.5-5.5) film made up of the oily sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands (located conveniently in the hair follicles) and the salty water secreted by the eccrine (a type of sweat gland) gland.
Prevent Topical Dehydration
• Avoid controlling skincare products (things that dry out the skin and lube it back up again).
• Protect face, lips, and delicate areas with a few drops of NO EVIL before exposure to environmental elements, hot showers, or saunas.
• Do not use a lipid-only (oil) product alone on the skin. Be sure there is a water element to your skincare rituals.
• When using honey in a mask: Mix a small amount of honey with at least four times the amount of water and let sit before mixing into the masque and applying.
• Avoid excessive sun exposure (even with SPF) and wind.
• Always remove your Oil Cleanser (NO EVIL) or Sow Your Wild Oats with a steamy washcloth so that it picks up the old oil and wipes it away.
Support the body's natural barrier by maintaining a proper Oil/Water Balance
• Create a Moisture Duo: Spray the Mineral Mist directly into Nourish & Replenish Oil.
• For dehydration, increase the ratio of Mineral Mist to Nourish & Replenish oil in your Moisture Duo Ritual.
• For overactive oil glands and humid conditions, use the same number pumps of Mineral Mist to N&R oil in your Moisture Duo Ritual.
• Go back to 3 drops Nourish & Replenish + 5 sprays of mist when conditions improve.
• You may mist skin before the Moisture Duo, but do not count those sprays as part of the Moisture Duo.
• Create a Cleansing Duo: add 10-15 drops NO EVIL to Sow Your Wild Oats before water and massage into hardened areas.
•Do not oil cleanse more than once in every 24 hour period.
• Steam skin with a layer of NO EVIL or Seeds of Change at least 1x/week instead of oil cleansing when there is a build-up of hardened, oxidized oil on the skin.
• Give your skin a “rest and reset” each night by Oil Cleansing without following up with the Moisture Duo.
Prevent Internal Dehydration
When the body experiences dehydration, it will take water that it would otherwise give to skin cells and use it for more demanding body systems. But, even with drinking extra water, the body doesn’t necessarily return the favor to the skin.
• Be reasonable. Too much water may deplete the body’s mineral supply.
• Drink 1-2 cups of water every morning upon waking. Wait at least and half hour before having breakfast.
• Drink 1 cup of water ½ hour before meals in order to hydrate the stomach lining and promote ease of digestion.
• Limit caffeinated beverages to 1-2 cups/day
• Replace afternoon coffee with Inner Strength tea or other suitable herbal tea. Drink room temperature water throughout the day, paying attention to having some 20-30 minutes before meals. Try not to guzzle water--especially during meals.
Improve Internal Lubrication and Hydration
• Get enough healthy, abundant fats.
• Avoid vegetable oils and hydrogenated oils.
• Limit sugary pick-me up drinks.
• Feed your biome: those little guys are mostly water!
• Avoid controlling skincare products (things that dry out the skin and lube it back up again).
• Protect face, lips, and delicate areas with a few drops of NO EVIL before exposure to environmental elements, hot showers, or saunas.
• Do not use a lipid-only (oil) product alone on the skin. Be sure there is a water element to your skincare rituals.
• When using honey in a mask: Mix a small amount of honey with at least four times the amount of water and let sit before mixing into the masque and applying.
• Avoid excessive sun exposure (even with SPF) and wind.
• Always remove your Oil Cleanser (NO EVIL) or Sow Your Wild Oats with a steamy washcloth so that it picks up the old oil and wipes it away.
Support the body's natural barrier by maintaining a proper Oil/Water Balance
• Create a Moisture Duo: Spray the Mineral Mist directly into Nourish & Replenish Oil.
• For dehydration, increase the ratio of Mineral Mist to Nourish & Replenish oil in your Moisture Duo Ritual.
• For overactive oil glands and humid conditions, use the same number pumps of Mineral Mist to N&R oil in your Moisture Duo Ritual.
• Go back to 3 drops Nourish & Replenish + 5 sprays of mist when conditions improve.
• You may mist skin before the Moisture Duo, but do not count those sprays as part of the Moisture Duo.
• Create a Cleansing Duo: add 10-15 drops NO EVIL to Sow Your Wild Oats before water and massage into hardened areas.
•Do not oil cleanse more than once in every 24 hour period.
• Steam skin with a layer of NO EVIL or Seeds of Change at least 1x/week instead of oil cleansing when there is a build-up of hardened, oxidized oil on the skin.
• Give your skin a “rest and reset” each night by Oil Cleansing without following up with the Moisture Duo.
Prevent Internal Dehydration
When the body experiences dehydration, it will take water that it would otherwise give to skin cells and use it for more demanding body systems. But, even with drinking extra water, the body doesn’t necessarily return the favor to the skin.
• Be reasonable. Too much water may deplete the body’s mineral supply.
• Drink 1-2 cups of water every morning upon waking. Wait at least and half hour before having breakfast.
• Drink 1 cup of water ½ hour before meals in order to hydrate the stomach lining and promote ease of digestion.
• Limit caffeinated beverages to 1-2 cups/day
• Replace afternoon coffee with Inner Strength tea or other suitable herbal tea. Drink room temperature water throughout the day, paying attention to having some 20-30 minutes before meals. Try not to guzzle water--especially during meals.
Improve Internal Lubrication and Hydration
• Get enough healthy, abundant fats.
• Avoid vegetable oils and hydrogenated oils.
• Limit sugary pick-me up drinks.
• Feed your biome: those little guys are mostly water!
Proper lubrication and hydration keep the body running smoothly and the skin soft and supple. A great way to achieve this is to get ample amounts of water as well as stable, abundant fats to assimilate it and electrolytes (minerals) to utilize it. (Similar to what we recommend in our topical skincare using Nourish & Replenish Oil with one of our Mineral Mists).
Compromised Barrier Function
When the acid mantle is compromised it can start to create even more issues:
• Chapped skin
• Patches of irritation
• Oilyish-dry patches around nose and brows
• Simple stress bumps are compounded into irritated or infected stress bumps
• Certain conditions (Rosacea, Eczema, Psoriasis) get exacerbated
• The skin is not able to defend itself from malicious microorganisms that naturally occur in the biome.
What can compromise the Acid Mantle?
• Using oils directly on the skin without ample hydration. (Oil by itself is not a moisturizer, has never been a moisturizer and will never be a moisturizer)
• Improper use of Humectants (honey, glycerine, hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol)
• Overuse of anti-oxidants (Yes, there can be too much of a good thing-I’m looking at YOU Rose hips seed oil after 3-4 months)
• pH fluctuations: alkaline soaps or acid peels
• Aging (after 40 the body’s daily renewal (overall metabolism) slows down—it may take up to 8 hours for the skin to regain integrity of the acid mantle.
• Poor nutrition (disproportionate amounts of EFA’s Omega 3, 6, & 9, not enough cholesterol, poor use of dietary fiber-both soluble and insoluble)
• Chapped skin
• Patches of irritation
• Oilyish-dry patches around nose and brows
• Simple stress bumps are compounded into irritated or infected stress bumps
• Certain conditions (Rosacea, Eczema, Psoriasis) get exacerbated
• The skin is not able to defend itself from malicious microorganisms that naturally occur in the biome.
What can compromise the Acid Mantle?
• Using oils directly on the skin without ample hydration. (Oil by itself is not a moisturizer, has never been a moisturizer and will never be a moisturizer)
• Improper use of Humectants (honey, glycerine, hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol)
• Overuse of anti-oxidants (Yes, there can be too much of a good thing-I’m looking at YOU Rose hips seed oil after 3-4 months)
• pH fluctuations: alkaline soaps or acid peels
• Aging (after 40 the body’s daily renewal (overall metabolism) slows down—it may take up to 8 hours for the skin to regain integrity of the acid mantle.
• Poor nutrition (disproportionate amounts of EFA’s Omega 3, 6, & 9, not enough cholesterol, poor use of dietary fiber-both soluble and insoluble)
When you are internally dehydrated the body will take water from your skin to assist other organs, but even when you “over-hydrate” the body does not return the favor to the skin!
More Notes on the Nature of the Moisture Duo
Q :Will this work with other oils and mists?
A: Sort of…
Using the Nourish & Replenish Oil with one of our Mineral Mists is an extremely effective way of giving the skin what it needs topically in a way that closely resembles the skin’s natural functions and processes without the need of a single artificial chemical or preservative. For best results, see how good it can be using our stuff and then go ahead and have fun being a kitchen alchemist. We really want to encourage taking your health and beauty into your own hands, we just don’t want to see you torture yourself or do damage to get there!
For skin that has been broken down too much in the past and is severely compromised, we recommend starting with No Evil to begin rebuilding the proper ratios of oil and water and then switch over to N&R (for it’s nourishing properties) once equanimity has been reached.
No Evil as part of your Moisture Duo is the best option to bring skin that tends to be over-reactive to a place where it ready to accept the nourishment N&R has to offer. You can start with N&R and get there eventually, but it will seem to take longer for the reactivity to decrease. (It doesn’t, actually…but that’s another story for another time) The nearly un-damagable, large molecule make-up of it (energetically restructured to vibrate at a frequency that resonates at a level that we want to be drawn to) makes it ideal for allowing the skin to rebuild without added inflammatory response.
Originally developed in 2006 and based on the Fibonacci Ratio and the physiological make-up of the skin, Nourish & Replenish (as part of your Moisture Duo) is just the right proportion of molecular oils, fatty acids, and surface re-builders to keep healthy skin functioning well or to gently nudge dysfunctional skin back to equanimity. In more recent years, studies keep popping up that remind us that this formulation still holds water… (get it…holds water…? I crack myself up)
Notes on our other oils:
Cow Fart Juice is useful when the skin tends towards structural integrity damage in addition to barrier damage, preventing scars and pigmentation issues during troubling times, but does not actively promote barrier repair. It can, however, make a good option if the barrier trouble is resulting in bacterial or fungal infections that need to be “managed”.
Seeds of Change is not an ideal option for someone with a compromised barrier. The antioxidant, surface-rebuilding characteristics of it can create more irritation and prevent the skin from doing it’s job of healing itself. When the skin is functioning well, the barrier has been repaired and moisture levels have been restored,(4-6 months) Seeds of Change may be introduced at 3 week intervals.
Why Mineral Mists?
Our mists are unique in two ways—our use of hydrosols (water that has been distilled through plant materials, picking up their essences) are not only shelf-stable for a long time (reducing the need for a preservative that could also act like an antibiotic or do damage!) and provide the lovely fragrance and active properties of the herbs they have been distilled through, but the finished hydrosol blends the we make have a naturally-occurring pH that is slightly acidic—mimicking the preferred pH of the skin. In addition, our re-mineralization process mimics fresh spring mineral water that has passed through ancient passages, picking up desired minerals that our bodies can use.
Although we love hydrosols as a skin care "raw ingredient" we do not recommend using using it on the skin as if it were a finished product. Just like drinking distilled water does not fulfill your hydration needs, pure hydrosols won't give you the same result as our Mineral Mists!
A: Sort of…
Using the Nourish & Replenish Oil with one of our Mineral Mists is an extremely effective way of giving the skin what it needs topically in a way that closely resembles the skin’s natural functions and processes without the need of a single artificial chemical or preservative. For best results, see how good it can be using our stuff and then go ahead and have fun being a kitchen alchemist. We really want to encourage taking your health and beauty into your own hands, we just don’t want to see you torture yourself or do damage to get there!
For skin that has been broken down too much in the past and is severely compromised, we recommend starting with No Evil to begin rebuilding the proper ratios of oil and water and then switch over to N&R (for it’s nourishing properties) once equanimity has been reached.
No Evil as part of your Moisture Duo is the best option to bring skin that tends to be over-reactive to a place where it ready to accept the nourishment N&R has to offer. You can start with N&R and get there eventually, but it will seem to take longer for the reactivity to decrease. (It doesn’t, actually…but that’s another story for another time) The nearly un-damagable, large molecule make-up of it (energetically restructured to vibrate at a frequency that resonates at a level that we want to be drawn to) makes it ideal for allowing the skin to rebuild without added inflammatory response.
Originally developed in 2006 and based on the Fibonacci Ratio and the physiological make-up of the skin, Nourish & Replenish (as part of your Moisture Duo) is just the right proportion of molecular oils, fatty acids, and surface re-builders to keep healthy skin functioning well or to gently nudge dysfunctional skin back to equanimity. In more recent years, studies keep popping up that remind us that this formulation still holds water… (get it…holds water…? I crack myself up)
Notes on our other oils:
Cow Fart Juice is useful when the skin tends towards structural integrity damage in addition to barrier damage, preventing scars and pigmentation issues during troubling times, but does not actively promote barrier repair. It can, however, make a good option if the barrier trouble is resulting in bacterial or fungal infections that need to be “managed”.
Seeds of Change is not an ideal option for someone with a compromised barrier. The antioxidant, surface-rebuilding characteristics of it can create more irritation and prevent the skin from doing it’s job of healing itself. When the skin is functioning well, the barrier has been repaired and moisture levels have been restored,(4-6 months) Seeds of Change may be introduced at 3 week intervals.
Why Mineral Mists?
Our mists are unique in two ways—our use of hydrosols (water that has been distilled through plant materials, picking up their essences) are not only shelf-stable for a long time (reducing the need for a preservative that could also act like an antibiotic or do damage!) and provide the lovely fragrance and active properties of the herbs they have been distilled through, but the finished hydrosol blends the we make have a naturally-occurring pH that is slightly acidic—mimicking the preferred pH of the skin. In addition, our re-mineralization process mimics fresh spring mineral water that has passed through ancient passages, picking up desired minerals that our bodies can use.
Although we love hydrosols as a skin care "raw ingredient" we do not recommend using using it on the skin as if it were a finished product. Just like drinking distilled water does not fulfill your hydration needs, pure hydrosols won't give you the same result as our Mineral Mists!
Common Mistakes with All-natural Skin Care can lead to barrier trouble just as much (if not more so) as conventional Skin Care.
Using Oil "straight" As If It Were A Moisturizer
Here is your friendly skin care professional reminder that oil is NOT a moisturizer-it never has been and never will be. Do not use straight up oil on your skin and think that you are moisturizing—there is no water present and it may give the oil glands the message that it does not need to produce its own oil. The same holds true for balms. There is a lot of confusion about this, but here is a hard truth: there is no such thing as a hydrating oil, only oils that bond well to water. Without the water element (in this case, our mineral mist) there is no moisturizing happening.
Over-Oil Cleansing
Oil Cleanse with No Evil at night. Massage 10 drops into the skin, then hold a warm, wet washcloth onto the skin and gently wipe away. Always use a washcloth to remove oil; splashing with water is not sufficient. Oil cleansing is appropriate for only ONCE within every 24 hours—the exception being when you are coming in for a professional service. Though oil cleansing is great for maintaining topical oil balance, using it more than necessary could start to break down the skin’s own barrier. Do not oil cleanse again in the morning-Facial bathing (making a warm bath with water in your hands and dipping your face in) is recommended, SYWO is awesome if you have a "big day" (but not too often), a clay mask is totally fine once a week,—but no oil cleansing.
Humectants
A note about humectants: Honey, glycerine, hyaluronic Acid and propylene glycol are all humectants—which means that they can hold many times their weight in water. Though this—in theory—sounds like something we would like for our skin, after the initial slide and glide wears off, these ingredients (no matter how “natural” or “chemical” they are) will start to steal the water from the skin when there is no moisture in the air. Friends, save your honey masks for summer and, even then, make sure there is an ample water portion to your formulation.
Here is your friendly skin care professional reminder that oil is NOT a moisturizer-it never has been and never will be. Do not use straight up oil on your skin and think that you are moisturizing—there is no water present and it may give the oil glands the message that it does not need to produce its own oil. The same holds true for balms. There is a lot of confusion about this, but here is a hard truth: there is no such thing as a hydrating oil, only oils that bond well to water. Without the water element (in this case, our mineral mist) there is no moisturizing happening.
Over-Oil Cleansing
Oil Cleanse with No Evil at night. Massage 10 drops into the skin, then hold a warm, wet washcloth onto the skin and gently wipe away. Always use a washcloth to remove oil; splashing with water is not sufficient. Oil cleansing is appropriate for only ONCE within every 24 hours—the exception being when you are coming in for a professional service. Though oil cleansing is great for maintaining topical oil balance, using it more than necessary could start to break down the skin’s own barrier. Do not oil cleanse again in the morning-Facial bathing (making a warm bath with water in your hands and dipping your face in) is recommended, SYWO is awesome if you have a "big day" (but not too often), a clay mask is totally fine once a week,—but no oil cleansing.
Humectants
A note about humectants: Honey, glycerine, hyaluronic Acid and propylene glycol are all humectants—which means that they can hold many times their weight in water. Though this—in theory—sounds like something we would like for our skin, after the initial slide and glide wears off, these ingredients (no matter how “natural” or “chemical” they are) will start to steal the water from the skin when there is no moisture in the air. Friends, save your honey masks for summer and, even then, make sure there is an ample water portion to your formulation.
RESET: when you need to restore the moisture levels needed for complete barrier repair
If it feels like:
3 drops of oil + 6 sprays of mineral mist are not enough—even when you do it twice in a row…
or
The surface of your skin feels a bit hot and stingy—even as it feels moisturized (plump and buoyant)…
There are patches that feel oily and dry at the same time…
your skin may need a reset to restore the moisture levels needed for complete barrier repair.
3 drops of oil + 6 sprays of mineral mist are not enough—even when you do it twice in a row…
or
The surface of your skin feels a bit hot and stingy—even as it feels moisturized (plump and buoyant)…
There are patches that feel oily and dry at the same time…
your skin may need a reset to restore the moisture levels needed for complete barrier repair.
Return the job of moisture balance to the glands for true Self care!
We ascertain that the natural oils and secretions that the body makes are the most appropriate and beautifying for one’s own body. Of course, this is assuming that
(1) the body is getting all of its necessary needs met in order to function well (both the nutritive building up as well as the messages)
(2) it is not under outside controlling forces.
(1) the body is getting all of its necessary needs met in order to function well (both the nutritive building up as well as the messages)
(2) it is not under outside controlling forces.
How To Reset Your Moisture Barrier From the Outside
Oil Cleanse First
• Apply 10 drops of Functional Skin Care Oil (No Evil, Cow Fart Juice, Nourish & Replenish, Seeds of Change)
• Get the oil nice and steamy…either in the shower, with a compress (with or without herbs) or over a steam bowl (with our without herbs). Do not ever steam or compress unprotected skin. Always apply an oil or some type of moisturizer first.
• Massage into congested areas with wet fingertips. This part is necessary if you have any build up (such as blackheads or asphyxiated pores).
• Wipe away completely with a warm, wet, textured washcloth.
• Get the oil nice and steamy…either in the shower, with a compress (with or without herbs) or over a steam bowl (with our without herbs). Do not ever steam or compress unprotected skin. Always apply an oil or some type of moisturizer first.
• Massage into congested areas with wet fingertips. This part is necessary if you have any build up (such as blackheads or asphyxiated pores).
• Wipe away completely with a warm, wet, textured washcloth.
Vita C Ten Minute Dry Serum
- Measure 1/2 tsp of the powder into a small dish, add 1/2 tsp of hot water into the dry powder and allow to dissolve while stirring. -about 2 minutes
- Apply to skin with the light touch of your fingers in an upward rolling motion. You could also use the tip of a cotton swab or small fan brush to glide over each area in long sweeping motions, leaving a thin layer of the serum evenly on the surface.
- This product creates an uncomfortable feeling on the surface of the skin, kind of like tiny sparks or tingles.
- Although it tingles-especially where it is most needed-this mask is not damaging or burning. The tingles subside on their own after a few minutes and most of our clients report looking less red and bumpy almost immediately.
- This product in only active while wet. For best results, keep the serum damp by pressing with wet fingertips, a towel or using a spray bottle of water.
- Wipe away completely with a wet towel (or herbal compress) and then follow with an additional cool compress if desired.
Aftercare
• Do not use oils on the skin for at least 12 hours, preferably longer. This may be uncomfortable, especially if you are used to controlling your skin. It takes at least 8 hours for the body to rebuild it’s natural chemical barrier, the acid mantle. This barrier is made up of the secretions from both the oil glands and the eccrine glands and is a much better barrier than anything you might apply topically. In fact, any topical product may hinder its production (the skin feels soothed, so why should it bother?) or strip it further. If possible, avoid moisturizing the area for a few days, applying only a touch of Mineral Mist, patted on with a fingertip. The area may get a little dehydrated, but unless you started with a major Barrier Dysfunction, it will return to functioning properly within a week.
• You may cleanse the next morning with Integrity Biome Rehab, if desired.
* Mix 1 tsp dry mask with one tsp hot water
* Apply to face in the shower, gently scrub in circles
* Remove with a warm, wet washcloth
• You may cleanse the next morning with Integrity Biome Rehab, if desired.
* Mix 1 tsp dry mask with one tsp hot water
* Apply to face in the shower, gently scrub in circles
* Remove with a warm, wet washcloth
Layering For Relief or Protection
RELEIF: Proper layering to the rescue!
Layering of hydration and lubrication to relieve and protect irritated, chapped skin before going out into harsh environmental conditions.
Layer 1: Drenching with a Mineral Mist
• Supersaturate your skin with hydration by misting 12 pumps of Mineral Mist over the face. (If you are low in certain minerals, this may tingle ever so slightly. If you don’t like that feeling, cook your vegetables at every meal or use less mists next time!)
Layer 2: Moisture Duo
• Retain equilibrate balance of secretory glands with your Moisture Duo: Put 3 drops of oil into the palm of the hands and spray 5-6 pumps of mineral mist directly into the oil to instantly emulsify it for best absorption.
Layer 3: Protective Oil
• Drip 2-4 drops of No Evil onto the fingertips and dot onto any areas that may be exposed to harsh, dehydrating elements.
This is NOT for everyday use. You are better off simply using the Moisture Duo and letting your skin do the work! But, sometimes, it is necessary (hello ski slopes!) for your comfort. Much of the "LAYERING" we see other "natural" skin care companies tell you to do is simply bad advice (they don't know any better yet) and will end up causing barrier damage after a long enough amount of time! Please do not fall victim to it--we know it can feel good to spray on lots of mist and then put straight up oil on the face and then a balm...but it's not good for your skin in the long-term!
Layering of hydration and lubrication to relieve and protect irritated, chapped skin before going out into harsh environmental conditions.
Layer 1: Drenching with a Mineral Mist
• Supersaturate your skin with hydration by misting 12 pumps of Mineral Mist over the face. (If you are low in certain minerals, this may tingle ever so slightly. If you don’t like that feeling, cook your vegetables at every meal or use less mists next time!)
Layer 2: Moisture Duo
• Retain equilibrate balance of secretory glands with your Moisture Duo: Put 3 drops of oil into the palm of the hands and spray 5-6 pumps of mineral mist directly into the oil to instantly emulsify it for best absorption.
Layer 3: Protective Oil
• Drip 2-4 drops of No Evil onto the fingertips and dot onto any areas that may be exposed to harsh, dehydrating elements.
This is NOT for everyday use. You are better off simply using the Moisture Duo and letting your skin do the work! But, sometimes, it is necessary (hello ski slopes!) for your comfort. Much of the "LAYERING" we see other "natural" skin care companies tell you to do is simply bad advice (they don't know any better yet) and will end up causing barrier damage after a long enough amount of time! Please do not fall victim to it--we know it can feel good to spray on lots of mist and then put straight up oil on the face and then a balm...but it's not good for your skin in the long-term!
How to support the body in repairing the Moisture Barrier from the inside.
• Cook with Ghee (clarified butter) as much as possible during your reset time. The butyric acid helps to repair mucosal linings.
• Drink ample amounts of Inner Strength Tea to improve how the cells are communicating.
• Fiber: both soluble and insoluble. (We prefer old, white rice for soluble and steamed root vegetables for insoluble)
• Drink ample amounts of Inner Strength Tea to improve how the cells are communicating.
• Fiber: both soluble and insoluble. (We prefer old, white rice for soluble and steamed root vegetables for insoluble)